The Building/Buying Process
North Texas Market Insider™ · New Construction
Residential New Construction: The Journey Home
Roughly 32 weeks from contract to keys, in eight phases. Click any phase for what happens, what you decide, and what actually goes wrong there. Mark where you are and the timeline tracks your build.
Timeline may vary. Weather, inspection scheduling, municipal permitting backlogs, supply chain, and the customization choices you make all move these dates. Treat the week ranges as a planning framework, not a promise, and get the builder's current schedule in writing at contract.
Building in North Texas? Have your own representation.
The agent in the model home works for the builder. I have walked buyers through every one of these phases across Ellis County and the I-35E corridor, and builder representation costs you nothing at closing. Call 214-228-0003.
North Texas Market Insider™ · New Construction
The Inspection Roadmap: Six Checks That Protect Your Warranty
The build timeline tracks the house. This tracks you. Six inspection points from pre-pour to the eleventh month, each one catching something that becomes expensive or impossible to prove once the window closes.
Pre-Pour Foundation Inspection
Before the pour CriticalAn independent inspector reviews the slab prep before concrete covers it forever.
Why it matters
What it catches
- Rebar or post-tension cable placement and spacing
- Under-slab plumbing routing and pressure
- Vapor barrier coverage and soil compaction
If you skip thisAny plumbing or structural defect under the slab becomes a foundation-cutting repair. North Texas clay makes this the most expensive fix in the entire home, and this is the cheapest inspection dollar-for-dollar in the build.
Framing Inspection
After framing, before rough-in ImportantSeparate from the city's inspection, which checks code minimums, not craftsmanship.
Why it matters
What it catches
- Structural framing errors and missing connectors
- Out-of-square walls and rough openings
- Roof truss and sheathing issues
If you skip thisStructural issues get buried under insulation and drywall, where they resurface later as cracks or doors that will not close, disguised as cosmetic problems.
Pre-Drywall Inspection
After mechanical rough-in CriticalArguably the single highest-value inspection in the entire build.
Why it matters
What it catches
- Electrical rough-in against the plan
- Plumbing supply, drain and vent lines
- HVAC duct sizing and missing pre-wire
If you skip thisAny error found after drywall requires cutting into a finished wall to fix. The least expensive inspection to get, the most expensive one to have skipped.
Final / Move-In Inspection
Before the builder walkthrough CriticalThe independent report you bring into the builder's own walkthrough.
Why it matters
How to use it
- Schedule it before the builder's own walkthrough
- Bring the written report with you
- Make the builder explain unfixed items and show fixed ones in person
- Budget more than three hours. Less is a red flag
Not adversarialBuilders typically address most of what a third-party inspection turns up. This is how you get a clean, documented list in front of them before you have keys.
Elevation Survey
At final inspection, not at pour CriticalThe one document a future structural warranty claim is measured against.
Why it matters
Why the timing matters
- A baseline reading taken after the full weight of the house has settled onto the foundation
- A survey at the bare slab means nothing, the settling load has not happened yet
If you skip thisMost structural warranties require proving deviation from a baseline. With no baseline on record, you have nothing to measure against when you file a claim years from now.
11-Month Warranty Inspection
Month 11 after closing Last chanceThe one inspection with a hard deadline. Miss the window and the coverage is gone regardless of the defect.
Why it matters
What it catches
- Foundation movement visible after a full seasonal cycle
- Drywall cracks and nail pops from initial settling
- Roof leaks, HVAC performance, window seal failures
If you skip thisAny defect found after the one-year mark becomes your financial responsibility, even if it existed on day one and simply had not shown itself yet. A claim filed after expiration is typically denied outright.
Building new? I track every one of these dates with my clients.
Most buyers find out about the 11-month inspection around month thirteen, after the coverage that would have paid for it is already gone. I put every inspection window on your calendar the day you go under contract. Call 214-228-0003.
A note on cost: a pre-pour or pre-drywall inspection typically runs a few hundred dollars, small relative to what it protects. Warranty terms, coverage periods, and what specifically triggers a claim vary by builder. Confirm your exact terms in writing at contract, not from memory at month eleven.
Navigating The Design Center
This is where buyers get overwhelmed and overspend on the wrong things. Structural decisions are permanent. Everything else is negotiable for the rest of your life. Get the structural list right before you walk in.
Know the cutoff date. Most builders freeze structural changes at or shortly after the pre-construction meeting. After that, the plan is locked regardless of what you are willing to pay.
Lock In Cannot Be Added Later
Framed, poured, or wired into the house. Changing these after close means demolition and permits, not a work order.
Once the frame is up, moving a wall is real demolition. Load-bearing walls compound the problem, because relocating one means engineering a header or beam to carry what the wall was carrying. The time to decide whether you want the open concept or the separate dining room is at plan selection, not after you have lived in it a year.
Set with the structural frame and the truss order. Raising a ceiling later means re-engineering the roof structure above it, which is rarely worth doing and sometimes not possible at all. If you want the vaulted great room or the exposed beams, they go on the list now.
Locked in with the framing package and the rough openings. Adding a window to an exterior wall later means cutting brick or siding, re-framing the opening, and matching materials that may no longer be manufactured in the same run. Think about where the morning light lands and where you want the back door before the frame goes up.
This is the one buyers most often regret, because the concrete and the roof are two entirely different problems. Flatwork you can pour any weekend. Extending a roofline is a structural project, not a patio project. It means new rafters or trusses, structural connections back into the existing frame, and it changes roof drainage, setbacks, and exterior elevation.
In an HOA subdivision you should expect to need architectural committee approval before starting, because it is an exterior architectural modification. That typically requires elevation drawings, a site plan, materials and colors, contractor details, and drainage information. HOA approval does not replace a government permit.
You should also expect to need a city building permit inside city limits. North Texas cities commonly require permits for structural roof work. Fort Worth requires one when rafters or ridge boards are replaced. Dallas requires permits for construction and repair work generally. That means plan review and inspections on a job that would have been a line item at contract.
Get the covered depth right the first time. You can always extend the slab beyond it later.
Supply and drain lines have to be roughed in before the slab pours. If there is any chance you finish out the game room with a wet bar, or add a bath to the bonus space, the rough-in goes in now while the ground is open. Adding it later means cutting the slab, which is exactly as expensive and disruptive as it sounds.
Upsizing later is a full panel replacement, not an add-on, and it usually means a utility coordination and a permit. If you are planning an EV charger, a pool, a shop, or a future casita, size the panel for it at rough-in rather than discovering the capacity ceiling three years in.
Depth, width, and service door placement are structural. A garage that is six inches too shallow for the truck you actually drive cannot be fixed. Measure your vehicles, then think about whether you want room for a workbench or storage along the back wall before you sign the plan.
Skip Here Do It After Close
Design center markup on these routinely runs above retail, and none of them require the builder to install.
Almost never worth buying through the design center. You are paying builder markup on a fixture you can source yourself for a fraction of it, and swapping one out is a thirty-minute job for an electrician or a capable homeowner. Take the builder base fixture and replace what you care about after closing.
A Saturday afternoon with a screwdriver, and the selection outside the builder catalog is enormously larger. This is one of the highest-markup, lowest-difficulty items on the entire sheet.
Third-party closet companies typically do better work for less money, and they will design around what you actually own rather than a standard package. Take the builder wire shelf and upgrade on your own timeline.
Builder pricing on blinds and shades is almost always above retail, and you will not know how the light actually behaves in each room until you have lived there through a season. Wait, measure, then buy.
Unlike the roofline, pouring additional flatwork later is straightforward. A concrete contractor can extend a patio, add a walkway, or pour a pad in a day. Get the covered portion right at contract and let the open concrete wait until you know how you use the yard.
Builder landscaping is usually minimal foundation planting designed to satisfy an HOA requirement, not to look good in year three. Most buyers upgrade it within the first year regardless of what they bought up front.
Regret List Cheap Now, Expensive Later
Not structural in the load-bearing sense, but they run through open walls and open ground. Add them while everything is exposed, or pay far more to retrofit them into a finished home.
Now: a minor plumbing rough-in behind the cooktop while the wall is open. Later: opening finished tile and wall to run a new supply line, then matching tile that may be discontinued. Frequently the single most expensive add-later item in the whole house, and it is trivial at rough-in.
Now: ethernet, camera, and speaker wire pulled cheaply through open stud bays. Later: fishing wire through finished walls, patching and repainting drywall, or giving up and living with a Wi-Fi workaround in the one room where it never quite reaches.
Now: a minor addition to the garage during electrical rough-in. Later: a dedicated electrician visit, a new circuit run from the panel, and a permit for a job that would have been nearly free at rough-in. Worth doing even if you do not own an electric vehicle yet, because the next buyer may.
Now: a short extension off the existing gas line for a future outdoor kitchen, fire feature, or generator. Later: trenching a finished, landscaped yard to reach the same line, then repairing everything you dug through.
Now: a simple bypass loop near the water heater during rough-in, even if you are not installing a system yet. Later: cutting into a finished wall to add the same loop. North Texas water hardness makes this one most owners eventually want.
Now: stubbed and wired under the covered slab for a future outdoor kitchen. Later: breaking finished concrete to reach any of it. If you have any intention of cooking outside eventually, run all three while the ground is still open.
Now: near-free during rough-in, and worth it for holiday lighting or a pressure washer alone. Later: an exterior wall opening and a brick or siding patch that never quite matches.
How To Navigating The Room
Design center staff are there to sell upgrades, and they are good at it. They are not there to build your priority list for you. Decide what is structural and non-negotiable before you sit down, and treat everything else as optional until proven otherwise.
Decide the number before you walk in, not across the table from a consultant showing you a tile you love. Design center overages are one of the most common ways buyers blow past what they planned to spend, and it happens a few hundred dollars at a time.
Can this be added after closing? If the answer is yes, it almost never belongs on today's list. That single question will cut most design center sheets substantially without costing you anything you actually wanted.
Before you sign, make sure each upgrade appears as its own line with its own price. Bundled packages are difficult to unwind later, and impossible to negotiate line by line once they are treated as a single item.
Exact pricing varies by builder, market, and the specific trade doing the work. Permit requirements, HOA architectural rules, and change-order cutoff dates vary by city and by community. The pattern holds regardless: anything routed through open framing, or tied into the roof structure, is cheap now and expensive, sometimes impossible, to retrofit later. Confirm the specifics with your builder and your HOA in writing.
Choosing Your Lot
The floor plan is the same on every lot in the section. The lot itself is the one decision you cannot undo after closing. Orientation, drainage, what is platted behind you, and what the premium actually buys all deserve the same scrutiny as the house.
Orientation Which Way Does The Backyard Face?
In North Texas, this does more to determine whether you actually use your backyard than almost anything in the design center. Tap a direction.
The most forgiving orientation in a Texas summer. The house shades the yard through the hottest part of the afternoon, so the patio stays usable when it matters. The tradeoff is a front elevation that takes direct sun all day, which is harder on paint and landscaping out front, and a backyard that gets less light for grass and gardens.
Best for actually using the patio in July.
Morning sun in the yard, afternoon shade from the house. A genuinely comfortable combination if you use the space early or late. Coffee outside works, evening grilling works, and the yard still gets enough light to keep grass healthy.
One of the better compromises available.
Sun in the morning, shade by mid-afternoon. The yard cools down early, which makes evening use pleasant most of the year. Front of the house takes the western sun instead, so expect more fade on the front door and more stress on front landscaping.
Strong for evening use, easy on the back of the house.
Good light through the morning and into midday, then softening in the afternoon. Grass and gardens do well here. Late afternoon can still run warm in peak summer, but it is far more manageable than a full western exposure.
Good balance of light and livability.
Sun across the yard most of the day, which grass and pools love and people tolerate less well in August. If you want a pool, this is a real advantage, because water stays warm and the surround dries quickly. If you want a shaded patio, plan on a deep covered structure or you will not sit out there from June through September.
Great for a pool. Demands a deep covered patio.
Heavy afternoon and evening sun through the hottest months. The patio bakes at exactly the hours most families want to be outside, and interior rooms on that side run warmer, which shows up on the summer electric bill. Deep overhangs, shade structures, and mature trees all help, but none of them are free.
The hardest orientation for a usable summer patio.
Direct western sun into the yard and into the back of the house from mid-afternoon until sunset. Sunset views are genuinely nice nine months a year. The other three, the patio is unusable until dark unless it is deeply covered, and the rooms on that side carry a real cooling load.
Beautiful in October. Punishing in July.
Shaded through the morning and into early afternoon, then catching late western sun. Better than a full west exposure because the worst of it arrives later, but you will still want depth on the covered patio if evening use matters to you.
Workable, but plan the covered depth accordingly.
Orientation guidance reflects general solar exposure patterns for North Texas. Actual comfort varies with roof overhang, mature trees, and covered patio design. Walk the lot at the time of day you would actually use it.
Water Drainage & Grading
The lot's water problem, if it has one, usually shows up in someone else's yard first.
Ask where this lot sits relative to its neighbors. Water moves downhill, and the lowest lot in a section collects what every higher lot sheds. In North Texas clay, standing water against a foundation is not a landscaping annoyance, it is a foundation issue waiting to happen. This is worth asking directly and getting a real answer.
A retention pond view carries a premium, and it also carries algae in late summer, mosquitoes, maintenance access that may cross your property, and often a required fence type you did not choose. Ask who maintains it, how often, and what the HOA can require of your fence line before you pay extra for the view.
Ask for the section's actual grading and drainage plan, not a walk of the raw dirt before it has been shaped. Raw dirt tells you almost nothing, because the final grade has not been established yet. The plan tells you where the water is designed to go.
Tradeoffs Corner Lots
Usually priced as an upgrade. Whether it actually is one depends entirely on what you want from the yard.
More natural light from two exposures, often a larger overall lot, and only one fence-line neighbor instead of two. For people who value light and a little separation, that combination is worth real money.
Two street-facing setbacks eat into usable yard, so the larger lot frequently produces a smaller backyard than the interior lot next door. Headlights sweep the windows at night more than they would mid-block, and you have more sidewalk and more frontage to maintain.
Some sections mandate corner-lot landscaping upgrades that the buyer pays for, on top of the lot premium. Find out before you commit, not at the HOA walkthrough.
Most Missed Future-Phase Risk
The best lot in the section usually backs to something open: a pasture, a greenbelt, a tree line. That parcel may already be Phase 4 of the same subdivision, a commercial pad site, or land positioned for a rezoning nobody has announced yet. The plat you are shown covers the current phase. It says nothing about the parcel behind your fence.
Pull the full master plan or PD ordinance for the section, not just the current phase, and check what is platted and zoned on the adjacent tract before you fall in love with the view. Zoning can change with a single council vote. A recorded plat is a much stronger signal than a verbal assurance from a sales office.
This is the one most buyers never check, and the one they cannot fix later.
Check the parcel on the Data Center Map →Buried Easements & Utilities
What is buried in or bolted to the lot decides what you can build on top of it.
A transformer box or fire hydrant on the lot line can dictate where the fence goes and where a pool cannot. These are easy to overlook on a dirt lot and impossible to relocate once the house is up.
Nothing permanent typically gets built inside one. That includes sheds, pools, and in some cases certain fence types. An easement running through the back third of a lot can quietly eliminate the exact thing you bought the lot for.
Pull the plat's easement widths before you decide where the patio, the pool, or the play set goes. Do it before you commit, not after you have a landscape design you cannot build.
Negotiable The Lot Premium
One of the most negotiable line items in the entire contract, and one of the least negotiated.
Corner lots, pond frontage, and cul-de-sac lots usually carry the biggest markups. Those markups are set by the builder based on demand, not by a fixed formula, which is exactly why there is room in them.
A lot that has sat unsold across more than one phase release. Builders track aging lot inventory closely, and a premium lot nobody has taken in two releases is a premium the builder is quietly reconsidering.
Ask whether the premium is negotiable on its own, separate from the base price and separate from any design center credit. Builders often protect base price for comp reasons while having far more flexibility on the premium.
How To Evaluating A Lot
The plat for the phase you are buying in shows you almost nothing about what happens behind you. The master plan or PD ordinance is the only document that does.
A ten in the morning showing tells you nothing about a west-facing patio at six in the evening in July. Go back at the hour that matters to you.
Zoning can change with a single council vote. A recorded plat is a far stronger signal about what is actually coming.
Before you commit to where the pool, the shed, or the patio will go. Assumptions here are expensive to unwind.
Easement rules, HOA requirements, and platting details vary by city and by section. Confirm the specifics for your exact lot with the builder's plat and your title company before you sign.
The Questions Nobody Asks Until It Is Too Late
Eighteen answers on representation, incentives, warranties, contracts, and the Texas-specific traps that catch new construction buyers in Ellis County and across DFW. Several of these have to be handled before your first visit to a model home, not after. I am a REALTOR®, not an attorney, lender, or inspector.
Do I need my own agent to buy new construction?
You are not required to have one. You are also not going to get a better price without one.
The person who greets you in the model home is a licensed agent who works for the builder. They are professional, knowledgeable, and genuinely helpful, and their fiduciary duty runs to the company that pays them. If you walk in unrepresented, the only licensed professional in that transaction represents the other side.
The builder does not discount the home because you came alone. That money does not come back to you.
What your own agent actually does here: reads a contract that is not the TREC form you may be expecting, knows which incentives that builder has actually given on other deals, tracks the build when the sales rep goes quiet, and is still involved during the punch list and warranty period after the sales office has moved on to the next phase.
Do I have to register my agent on my first visit?
Yes, and this is the single most expensive mechanical detail in new construction.
Most builders honor buyer-agent compensation only if your agent is registered at your first contact with the community and is physically present on that first visit. Lennar, for example, requires the agent be identified at the buyer's first interaction with any Lennar employee and present on that visit, with registration expiring after 60 days.
Tour a model home alone on a Saturday drive and you can permanently forfeit representation at that community. Not for that day. For that community, on that purchase. Bringing an agent in later usually does not fix it.
If you are going to look at anything, even casually, call me first. It takes thirty seconds and it is the difference between having someone on your side and not.
Does the new Texas buyer agreement law affect touring model homes?
Yes, and it took effect recently enough that most buyers have not heard about it.
Texas SB 1968 amended the Real Estate License Act, and effective January 1, 2026, Occupations Code §1101.563 requires a written agreement between a buyer and a license holder before that agent shows residential property. The law also repealed subagency in Texas.
There is a narrow showing-only path where the agent provides no advice or opinions, which is capped at 14 days.
How it interacts with model homes: these rules attach to the agent representing you. A builder's own employee may be exempt from licensing entirely under TREC Rule 535.34, so nothing stops you from walking into a sales office alone. But your agent needs the written agreement in place before showing you property, which means the paperwork has to happen before the tour, not during it.
Who pays my agent's commission on a new build?
Almost always the builder, and that has not meaningfully changed.
Following the NAR settlement effective August 17, 2024, buyer-agent compensation is no longer published in the MLS and sellers are no longer presumed responsible for it. Builders overwhelmingly still pay it, because a buyer's agent is a sales channel and the cost is already in their marketing budget.
Per Redfin, the average buyer's agent commission was 2.40 percent in the first quarter of 2025, up slightly from 2.37 percent in the fourth quarter of 2024 and 2.36 percent in the third quarter of 2024, when the new rules took effect.
Compensation is negotiable and is now stated in your written agreement. What matters practically is the registration rule above, since that is what determines whether the builder pays at all.
Should I use the builder's preferred lender?
Sometimes yes, and you will not know without running both.
Nearly every meaningful builder incentive is tied to the preferred lender. Rate buydowns, closing cost credits, and design credits typically evaporate if you finance elsewhere. That is legal. What is not legal is requiring you to use them or charging you a higher purchase price for declining.
Where the builder and lender share ownership, an Affiliated Business Arrangement disclosure is required at or before referral under 12 CFR §1024.15, you cannot be required to use the affiliate, and referral fees are prohibited. The CFPB does enforce this, including a $1.75 million penalty against Freedom Mortgage in August 2023.
Get a Loan Estimate from the builder's lender and from at least one outside lender, then compare all-in cost over the years you will actually own the home. A preferred lender with a $15,000 credit and a slightly worse rate frequently still wins. Sometimes it does not. Run it.
What can I actually negotiate with a builder?
Not the base price, in almost every case. Nearly everything else, in most cases.
Builders hold base price to protect the comps in the community. Cutting your price by $20,000 reduces the appraised value for every home they sell after yours, which is why they will hand you $20,000 in other forms before they will move the number on the sign.
Where the room actually is: closing cost credits, rate buydowns, design center credits, lot premiums, appliance and blind packages, and fence or landscaping allowances.
When the room is largest: standing inventory that has been finished and sitting, and the end of a quarter or the end of the year when the sales office is chasing a quota. October through December is the strongest window; April through June is the weakest.
What incentives are DFW builders offering right now?
Financing help, mostly, and more of it than the sign out front suggests.
Rate buydowns are the primary tool. Temporary 2-1 structures lower your rate two points in year one and one point in year two before reverting. Permanent buydowns cost the builder more and lower the rate for the life of the loan. Per HousingWire in February 2026, roughly 70 percent of new home sales now include rate buydowns or structured incentives.
Closing cost and flex credits in DFW commonly run $10,000 to $30,000 depending on the community and the home. Examples circulating in 2026 include Lennar publishing rates near 3.99 percent plus up to $10,000 in closing costs on select inventory, and stacked packages around $21,500 in the Arlington area.
Read the stack carefully. A "$50,000 incentive package" that combines a temporary buydown, a lender-contingent credit, and a design center credit priced at design center markup is frequently worth $25,000 to $35,000 in real terms. Still real money. Not fifty.
Do builders use the standard TREC contract?
No, and this catches almost every buyer who has purchased a resale home before.
Licensed agents must use TREC-promulgated forms in resale transactions. Builders are exempt and use their own attorney-drafted contracts, written to protect the builder.
What is typically different: no option period and therefore no unconditional right to terminate; earnest money and deposits that can become non-refundable once construction begins; delay clauses that give the builder wide latitude on the completion date; and frequently a binding arbitration clause.
TREC does publish New Home Contract forms for incomplete and completed construction, but production builders generally use their own.
The resale instinct is that you have a few days to change your mind. On a builder contract you may not. Read the termination and delay language before you sign, or have someone read it who knows what is missing.
Can I get my earnest money back if I back out?
Depends entirely on where you are in the build and what the contract says, and the answer is harsher than in resale.
Before construction starts you generally have more room, though the builder's contract governs and there is usually no option period to lean on.
After construction starts deposits commonly become non-refundable. The builder has ordered materials, scheduled trades, and started building something to your selections. Design center deposits are frequently non-refundable from the moment you sign the selection sheet.
The financing contingency is where most buyers actually have protection, and only if the contract includes one. Verify that it does and understand exactly what triggers it.
Do not put money down on a to-be-built home until your financing is genuinely solid. Get fully underwritten first. The contract will not save you the way a TREC option period would.
Do I really need an inspection on a brand-new home?
Yes, and you need three, not one.
Pre-drywall is the most valuable and the one most buyers skip. Once drywall covers the framing, plumbing, electrical, and HVAC, defects become invisible until they cause problems years later. Fixes at this stage are cheap and the builder makes them.
Final walkthrough before closing catches finishes, appliances, and anything visible.
The 11-month warranty inspection happens before your one-year workmanship warranty expires, after the home has been through all four seasons. Settlement cracks, nail pops, drainage problems, and HVAC performance issues surface in that first year.
A DFW practitioner with over 300 new construction closings reports buyers who do all three save $8,000 to $15,000 on average in repairs that would otherwise fall outside the warranty. Combined cost of the first two runs roughly $600 to $1,000; the eleven-month adds $300 to $500.
The city inspector checks minimum code compliance, frequently in fifteen or twenty minutes. That is not a quality inspection and it is not working for you. A builder who resists an independent inspection is telling you something worth hearing.
What does the builder warranty actually cover, and for how long?
Three tiers, and Texas law changed recently in a way that matters.
One year covers workmanship and materials. Two years covers the plumbing, electrical, and HVAC delivery systems. The third tier covers major structural components, and that number is now negotiable by statute.
Texas HB 2024, effective June 9, 2023, amended Civil Practice and Remedies Code §16.009 to shorten the statute of repose from 10 years to 6 years if the builder provides a qualifying written 1-2-6 warranty. If no qualifying warranty is provided, the ten-year window remains. It applies to detached one- and two-family homes and townhomes up to three stories, for contracts signed on or after that date.
Ask which one you are getting. A builder offering the 1-2-6 warranty has cut your structural claim window from ten years to six in exchange for putting the warranty in writing. That is a real tradeoff and it should be a knowing one.
What if the builder does bad work? How do I make a claim?
Texas has a required process, and skipping it can cost you the case.
The Residential Construction Liability Act, Texas Property Code Chapter 27, requires written pre-suit notice by certified mail with at least 60 days elapsing before you can file suit. Courts will not let a claim proceed without it.
After receiving notice the builder has 35 days to inspect, up to three inspections within that window, 60 days to make a written offer of repair or settlement, and if you reject the offer as unreasonable, 10 additional days to supplement it.
Separately, limitations run four years for breach of contract or warranty and two years for negligence. HB 2022 in 2023 also voided contractual attempts to waive RCLA.
Document everything from day one. Photographs with dates, written communications rather than phone calls, and a specific finding with measurements. Builders sometimes argue an item is within tolerance or normal settling. Sometimes that is legitimate. A photographed, measured finding is much harder to wave off.
Why did my property taxes jump so much the second year?
Because the first bill was probably for a vacant lot, and almost nobody warns buyers about it.
Texas appraises property based on its condition as of January 1. If your home was not finished and on the tax roll by that date, the first year's bill may reflect the unimproved lot value only. The completed house gets added the following January.
Two things go wrong at once. The tax bill jumps enormously, and your lender set your escrow based on the low first-year number, so you get an escrow shortage on top of the higher payment.
The homestead cap does not protect you here. The 10 percent cap begins only on January 1 of the tax year after the first year you qualify for the exemption, so that first full-value assessment is uncapped.
File your homestead exemption immediately, budget from the projected full-value tax rather than the first bill, and consider protesting during that gap year to set the lowest possible base before the cap starts working for you.
What are MUD and PID taxes, and does my community have them?
Additional taxing layers that are extremely common in newer DFW master-planned communities, and they stack on top of county, city, and school rates.
A MUD is a Municipal Utility District created under Texas Water Code Chapter 49 to finance water, sewer, and drainage where a city has not extended service. Disclosure is required under §49.452, with notice content specified in §49.4521. Failure to deliver it lets the buyer terminate and recover earnest money and costs.
A PID is a Public Improvement District funding amenities and infrastructure, disclosed under Local Government Code Chapter 372 as strengthened by HB 1543 in 2021, and handled through TREC's Notice to Purchaser addendum.
Combined effective rates in some DFW subdivisions exceed 3 percent. A MUD or PID can add roughly $2,000 to $7,000 or more per year against a comparable non-district home.
A single property can sit in both a MUD and a PID, each requiring its own separate notice with its own independent termination right. Do not assume one covers the other, and pull the parcel on the county appraisal district site yourself.
How do I protect the foundation, and does the warranty cover movement?
This is the North Texas question, and the answer has a condition attached that buyers rarely read.
Most homes here are slab-on-grade over Blackland Prairie expansive clay that swells when wet and shrinks when dry. New builds are most vulnerable in the first year or two while the soil around a fresh slab settles.
What to do: run a soaker hose or drip line roughly 12 to 18 inches out from the foundation during dry periods. The goal is consistent moisture, not saturation, and water all sides evenly so the slab is not twisted by uneven conditions.
On the warranty, honestly: there is rarely a line saying failure to water voids coverage. What exists instead is an affirmative homeowner duty to maintain soil moisture and drainage, plus exclusions for damage caused by improper maintenance, altered grade, and changed drainage. The Texas Association of Builders standard limited warranty form carries exactly those exclusions, and Perry Homes' own homeowner guidance instructs owners to add moisture during protracted dry periods.
Foundations are warranted against movement exceeding defined tolerances that causes observable damage, not against all cracking. Neglecting moisture and drainage gives a builder legitimate grounds to deny a claim. Set the soaker hose the first summer and keep a note of when you run it.
Spec home or build from scratch, which is better?
Different tradeoffs, and the negotiating room sits on one side.
A spec or inventory home is already built or nearly finished. You close in weeks rather than months, you see exactly what you are buying, and this is where the incentives are deepest, because every month it sits costs the builder carrying money.
A to-be-built home gets you your floor plan, your lot, and your selections. You wait, typically six to ten months in DFW, and you have less leverage on price because the builder has not spent anything yet.
If you want maximum value, look at standing inventory near the end of a quarter. If you want the house you actually pictured, build it and accept that the discount will be smaller. Both are legitimate. Just know which one you are optimizing for.
How long does it take to build, and what if they are late?
Roughly six to ten months contract to completion in DFW for a to-be-built home, and considerably faster for standing inventory.
The delay question is the one to ask before you sign. Builder contracts commonly include broad language allowing extensions for weather, supply chain, and labor, sometimes granting a year or more past the target date without penalty.
What that language typically does not address is your cost. If your lease ends, your rate lock expires, or you are carrying two housing payments, the contract generally does not compensate you.
Ask directly what happens if the home is not delivered by the target date, get the answer in writing, and do not surrender a lease or a rate lock based on a construction schedule. Build in a buffer of your own, because the contract will not build one for you.
Which upgrades are worth it, and what is a lot premium?
Design center pricing carries a real markup, so the question is which upgrades you cannot do later.
Worth doing through the builder: anything structural or behind the walls. Room extensions, additional windows, electrical and plumbing rough-ins, gas lines, and the slab and framing decisions. These are enormously expensive or impossible to add afterward.
Frequently better done later: light fixtures, blinds, backsplash, landscaping, and sometimes flooring and countertops depending on the markup. A local contractor commonly does the same work for meaningfully less.
Lot premiums are the surcharge for a better homesite, and they range from a few thousand to well into five figures for a greenbelt, cul-de-sac, or corner. They are negotiable, particularly on lots that have not moved.
Buyers commonly spend 10 to 20 percent of the purchase price at the design center. Decide your number before you walk in, because the room is designed to make that number feel small.
How do I check out the builder before I commit?
Do this before you fall in love with a floor plan, not after.
Talk to people who already live there. Knock on doors in an earlier phase of the same community and ask two questions: how was the build process, and how has the warranty department been since. The second answer matters more.
Look at the warranty response, not the model home. Every builder shows well in a staged model. The difference between builders shows up at month seven when something needs fixing.
Ask which specific warranty they provide and whether it is administered in-house or by a third party.
Check the phase you are buying into. Early phases in a community carry the highest MUD rates because fewer homeowners are carrying the same bond debt, and the last phases sometimes get the tired crews.
I work with builders across Ellis County and the I-35E corridor, including Ridge Crossing, Lakeway, Myrtle Creek, Waterfall Ranch, and Highland Homes. I will tell you which ones I would put my own family with and which ones I would not, and that is a conversation better had over the phone than on a webpage.
Thinking about touring a community this weekend? Call me first. Registration has to happen on your first visit, and after that it usually cannot be fixed.
Call Bobby · (214) 228-0003General education, not legal, tax, lending, or inspection advice. I am a REALTOR®, not an attorney, licensed mortgage loan originator, CPA, home inspector, or engineer. Builder incentive figures, market data, and build timelines are typical ranges as of 2026 and vary by builder, community, and month. Warranty terms, contract provisions, and registration policies vary by builder and are governed by your specific documents. Statutory citations reflect Texas law as of 2026. Verify every item with the builder, your lender, the county appraisal district, and the appropriate licensed professional before relying on it.
Bobby Franklin
Realtor®
Serving DFW | Ellis County
16 Northgate Dr. Ste 100
Waxahachie, TX 75165
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